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The Chicago Reader

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Blogs, Bleader Nov 10, 2014
Is peri peri chicken the next battle in the poultry wars?

Fogo's Peri Peri Portuguese-style vs. Fat Rice's Macanese style
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: One Bite, Food Chain, Food & Drink, Fogo's Peri Peri, chicken, Portuguese chicken, Brazilian chicken, peri peri, pili pili, Fat Rice, Abraham Conlon

Blogs, Bleader Jul 31, 2014
There's nothing in the air at Piko Riko

Pollo a la brasa in Humboldt Park has seen better days.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Food Chain, Food & Drink, Piko Riko, Pico Rico, pollo a la brasa, chicken, Colombian food, perro caliente, Brasa Roja, D'Candela, humboldt park

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Jun 28, 2014
Recommended
Right and wrong: Sodikoff's High Five Ramen and the Melmans' Ramen-San

Hogsalt Hospitality and Lettuce Entertain You face off over noodle soup.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Ramen-San, High Five Ramen, ramen, David Chang, Momofuku Noodle Bar, Brendon Sodikoff, Santouka, Ramen Misoya, Lettuce Entertain You, Hogsalt Hospitality, cocktails, Paul McGee, whiskey, Japanase whiskeys, Doug Psaltis, cucumber, sesame, togarashi, uni, chicken, shrimp, pork, wontons, Studio Paris, tonkotsu, soy, broth, shiitake, mushrooms, vegetarian options, seaweed, bamboo, scallions, ginger, chashu, hanjuku tamago, eggs, kimchi, garlic, black garlic, Bub City, brisket, River North, shoyu ramen, tonkotsu, corn, miso, chile oil, Sun Noodle, temomi, noodles, ichimi, sansho, spiciness, marrow, Jeff Pikus, mirin, leeks, bean sprouts, pork belly, bushi, bonito, mackerel, tare, squid, Green Street Smoked Meats, sake, Asahi, beer, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Jun 9, 2014
Recommended
The secret weapon at New Asia? Freshly slaughtered chickens

But the Vietnamese restaurant in Lincoln Square does right by other creatures too.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, New Asia, Lawrence Avenue, Lincoln Square, L.D. Pho, Vietnamese restaurants, pho, rice, beef, catfish, fish, oxtail, goat, snails, lemongrass, bear meat, alligator meat, meat, seafood, chicken, pho ga, Victoria Nguyen, Argyle Street, Carol Stream, Tiffany Nguyen, Nam Nguyen, Aden Live Poultry, halal butchers, noodles, broth, goi ga, soups, cabbage, onion, peanuts, livers, gizzards, ginger, eggs, stir-fries, mustard greens, tofu, ca kho to, goi ca, Anh Linh, beer, iced beer, tea, jasmine, Cafe Huong, Nhu Lan Bakery, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review May 30, 2014
Recommended
Brendan Sodikoff's new Italian spot enters a crowded field

But the pastas alone will set Cocello apart from its peers.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Cocello, Brendan Sodikoff, Hogsalt Hospitality, River North, Italian restaurants, Eataly, Joe Fish, Nico Osteria, Cicchetti, Azzura EnoTavola, Dillman's, menus, pastas, handmade pastas, salads, antipasti, meat, fish, seafood, crudo, red snapper, lemon, olive oil, sea salt, beef carpaccio, peas, fava beans, ricotta cheese, artichoke heats, Parmesan cheese, chile, frico, octopus, caper, neonata, steak, osso bucco, chicken, chicken cacciatore, sauces, fennel, potatoes, porchetta, rosemary, cacio de pepe, Reggiano cheese, linguine, clams, broth, pork, orecchiette, sausage, kale, garlic, penne, guanciale, Amaticiana sauce, eggs, Bavette's, bread, bakeries, desserts, affogato, tiramisu, zeppole, olive-oil cake, cocktails, negronis, manhattans, vermouth, service, restaurant names, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review May 23, 2014
Recommended
Joe Fish, Rosebud Restaurants' new seafood house, is for ballers

Few people seem to have mourned the passing of Rosebud Trattoria—but something more current has taken its place.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Joe Fish, Rosebud, Centro Ristorante, Alex Dana, Grant Pick, Chicago Reader, River North, Chicago Sun-Times, Michael Sneed, Rosebud Steakhouse, Rosebud Prime, Carmine's, portions, Italian restaurants, seafood restaurants, fish, seafood, Nico Osteria, service, appetizers, salads, entrees, oysters, bacon, spinach, Pamesan cheese, crab, crab cakes, lobster, avocado, lamb, chicken, steak, burgers, sea bass, prosciutto, branzino, Dover sole, wild rice, bouillabaisse, squid, mussels, clams, shrimp, pasta, rice, linguine alle vongole, risotto, tomatoes, ramps, Bang Bang Pie, cocktails, biscuits, desserts, cheesecake, pecan pie, pies, ricotta cheese, honey, almonds, blackberries, cake, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review May 9, 2014
Recommended
Take your meatings at Tête Charcuterie . . . but save room for salad

The new Randolph Row restaurant is a lot more than just a temple to our culture's insatiable flesh lust.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Tête Charcuterie, Thomas Rice, Kurt Guzowski, West Loop, Fulton Market, Randolph Row, meat, charcuterie, cured meat, sausages, menus, gargouillou, Michel Bras, beef, corned beef, Filipino longaniza, terrines, pates, cheeses, the Butcher & Larder, Public Quality Meats, Nduja Artisans, West Loop Salumi, finocchiona, curing rooms, salami, cured sausages, Bresaola, bacon, pork, headcheese, aspic, veal, duck, truffle, foie gras, chicken, olives, carrots, red peppers, mustard, hot dogs, bratwurst, fried rice, shrimp, garlic, Fat Rice, capers, onions, tagliatelle, vegetables, desserts, ramps, fava beans, asparagus, strawberries, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review May 5, 2014
Recommended
Ani: All-purpose Japanese for a neighborhood that can use it

Arami's younger brother opens in Lakeview.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Ani, Ty Fujimara, Troy Fujimara, donburi, Japanese restaurants, Arami, Small Bar, Lakeview, Chizakaya, maki mono, wasabi, shrimp, eel, salmon, Tamanishiki Super Premium Rice, rice, sushi, chicken, daikon, ginger, beef, ramen, shoyu ramen, giardiniera, noodles, pork, egg, robata, mushrooms, appetizers, sesame seeds, wakame, yuzu, takoyaki, octopus, Kewpie, tonkatsu, sake, wine, beer, whiskey, Japanese food, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Apr 11, 2014
Spritz Burger: Last seat on the burger bandwagon

The Hearty Boys team up with pastry chef Gale Gand for a burger joint.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Spritz Burger, Lakeview, Dan Smith, Steve McDonagh, Hearty Boys, Gale Gand, Tru, burgers, Malort, cocktails, Hearty, spritzers, pastry chefs, desserts, beef, Kuma's, poutine, bread pudding, cheese, eggs, hollandaise sauce, Spam, lettuce, tomatoes, chutney, turkey, turkey burgers, beets, panko, shrimp, chicken, liver, bread, garlic, batter, fried chicken, brisket, root beer, latkes, mac 'n' cheese, Cheetos, tator tots, lemon meringue pie, pies, syrups, bitters, soda siphons, gine, port, amaro, rum, batavia

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Apr 4, 2014
Bottlefork: A fine chef meets the Dec

Kevin Hickey, formerly of Allium, joins forces with Rockit Ranch.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Bottlefork Bar & Kitchen, River North, Kevin Hickey, Billy Dec, food writers, restaurant critics, Rockit Ranch Productions, Dragon Ranch, Allium, Rockit Burger Bar, burgers, Wrigleyville, burgers, menus, snacks, cocktails, whiskey, rum, bourbon, beer, salt, pasta, chicken, chicken meatballs, quail eggs, bratwurst, rabbit, cornmeal, poutine, potatoes, kale, squash, pork, beef, lamb, chorizo, ham, po'boy, foie gras, oysters, lobster, Bottlefork, octopus, potato salad, beans, brussels sprouts

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Mar 28, 2014
Recommended
Chef Lee Wolen reboots Boka

The decade-old restaurant and flagship of the Boka group maintains its relevance.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Review, Boka, Lincoln Park, Lee Wolen, loup de mer, capers, artichoke hearts, broth, octopus, tonkotsu, The Lobby, Peninsula Hotel, chicken, Eleven Madison Park, Moto, Butter, Boka Restaurant Group, appetizers, menus, cauliflower soup, curry oil, cream, ham, broccoli, salads, eggs, Parmesan cheese, cheese, ham, almonds, ravioli, onion soup, blood sausage, arctic char, potatoes, pears, Meyer lemon, salt-cod, fish, ricotta gnudi, sturgeon, entrees, lamb, monkfish, beans, scallops, desserts, Genie Kwon, pastry chefs, chefs, sesame cake, custard, yuzu, buckwheat, pineapple, cheesecake, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Mar 21, 2014
Recommended
Japonais by Morimoto: At the top of the sushi food chain

The Iron Chef puts his brand on some of the best sushi in the city right now.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Japonais by Morimoto, Masaharu Morimoto, Iron Chef, Japonais, omakase, sushi, sushi bars, Gene Kato, Sumi Robata Bar, Kinmont, sustainable seafood, seafood, overfished species, eel, yellowtail, bluefin tuna, salmon, sashimi, pizza, anchovy, aioli, okonomiyaki, pancakes, fish, pork, gyoza, bacon, crab, uni carbonara, sea urchin, noodles, peas, pasta, chicken, chicken noodle soup, soup, tofu, kimchi, dashi, rice, eggs, duck confit, duck, risotto, oysters, foie gras, kasutera, desserts, sake, beer, Rogue Ales, whiskey, Japanese whiskey, Japanese restaurants, Japanese fusion restaurants, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Feb 28, 2014
Recommended
Make the drive to Chicagoland's only Lao restaurant

Spicy Thai Lao is in a blink-and-you-miss-it south-suburban strip mall. But you don't want to miss it.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Review, Burbank, Illinois, suburban restaurants, Kaew Saengsom, Nakhon Phanom, papaya salad, som tam, papaya, Next Restaurant, chiles, fish sauce, lime juice, fish paste, pla ra, tamarind, palm sugar, Laos, Isan, Lao restaurants, Sabai-Dee, Peter Engler, LTHForum, Thai food, Lao food, Isan food, Wat Dhammaram, crab Rangoon, panang curry, menus, printed menus, soup, kow tome, khao tom, chicken broth, chile oil, tom yam, chicken, oxtail soup, star anise, cinnamon, Vietnamese food, jackfruit, jackfruit salad, rice powder, banana salad, bananas, larb neua, ground beef, beef, rice, sausage, lemongrass, galangal root, fish, fish cakes, tod mun, kaffir lime leaf, halal food, squid, green beans, bell peppers, green peppercorns, eggplant, krachai, egg rolls, turmeric, northeastern Thai food, southern Thai food, pad tamin, glass noodles, cabbage, kimchi, Spicy Thai Lao, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Feb 21, 2014
Recommended
At Analogue, cocktails get top billing but the food steals the show

The Cajun menu at Logan Square's new cocktail bar is deceptively complex.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Review, Analogue, Cajun food, Violet Hour, gumbo, po'boys, dirty rice, biscuits, Julia Thiel, Chicago Reader, Robert Haynes, Henry Prendergast, cocktails, Alfredo Nogueira, Rootstock, Flipside Cafe, trout dip, saltines, crackers, hot sauce, potato salad, chicken, sausage, mirliton, chayote, mushrooms, garlic, meat, cheese, fish, local sourcing, french fries, pork, Slagel Farms, sandwiches, beef, hot dogs, chowchow, beans, Au Cheval, fattiness, headcheese, boudin balls, peppers, Scotch eggs, mashed potatoes, yams, desserts, bread pudding, sweet cocktails, The Matchbox, beer cocktails, bitters, purls, Malort cocktails, Malort, bars, Cajun restaurants, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Dec 13, 2013
Recommended
Azzurra EnoTavola is the season's Italian sleeper

Simple, soulful Italian food from the folks behind Anteprima and Bar Ombra
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Azzurra Eno Tavola, Italian restaurants, Wicker Park, Marty Fosse, Anteprima, Spiaggia, decor, light fixtures, Victrola horns, blue, Katie Kelly, sausage, yogurt, pasta, vinaigrette, menus, small plates, Bar Ombra, carrot caponata, olives, vegetables, pine nuts, simplicity, Italian cuisine, wine, wine lists, wine by the glass, mushrooms, arancini, farro, rice, radicchio, balsamic vinegar, walnuts, cheese, shrimp, escarole, octopus, potatoes, pork, eggs, lamb, meatballs, gnocchi, linguine, orecchiette, tagliatelle, rigatoni, spaghetti carbonara, rabbit, rapini, meat, short rib, polenta, brussels sprouts, chicken, peppers, duck, sweet potato, The Bristol, trout, fish, seafood, fregola, pork ribs, squash, winter greens, pickled vegetables, seasonal foods, desserts, bread pudding, budinos, digestives, limoncello, arancello, liquers, Azzurra EnoTavola, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Nov 22, 2013
Recommended
The Chop Shop keeps it simple

Wicker Park's multidisciplinary butcher/bar/restaurant/performance space does a lot—and does a lot with a little.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, The Chop Shop, fasting, restaurant reviews, meat, chicken, Honey Butter Fried Chicken, Wicker Park, butcher shops, bars, performance spaces, Minelli Meat & Deli, Butcher & Larder, Publican Quality Meats, deli meats, cheese, antipasti, sausage, steak, pork chops, Italian sausage, chicken, salmon, burgers, gnocchi, Urban Union, rib eye steak, strip steak, potatoes, hanger steak, bacon, kohlrabi, brussels sprouts, shrimp, root vegetables, beer, charcuterie, duck, pancetta, pork, liver, root vegetables, sandwiches, Chop Shop, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Nov 15, 2013
Recommended
Bohemian rhapsody at Dusek's

Jared Wentworth's new restaurant in Pilsen is more than just Longman & Eagle south.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Dusek's, Dusek's Board & Beer, Punch House, Thalia Hall, Pilsen, developers, John Dusek, architecture, Empty Bottle, Bruce Finkelman, beer, bars, Jared Wentworth, Longman & Eagle, cocktail bars, meat, foie gras, off cuts, organs, chicken, burgers, beef, Slagel Farms, duck, tete de cochon, frog legs, pigtail, qual eggs, daikon, sausage, choucroute, sauerkraut, potatoes, apples, pork, craft beer, seafood, oysters, chowder, leeks, mackerel, gnocchi, mushrooms, beets, amuses-bouche, cuttlefish, tagine, couscous, vegetables, green beans, shallots, bar snacks, bar menus, menus, olives, crab dip, sorbet, Nightwood, punches, tea, churros, gentrification, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Oct 29, 2013
Recommended
Three Dots and a Dash: Morse code for bliss

Paul McGee's tiki bar is an island paradise amid the River North flotsam.
- By Mara Shalhoup
- Tags: Restaurant Review, Three Dots and a Dash, Paul McGee, cocktails, The Whistler, Logan Square, Bub City, lounges, Lettuce Entertain You, River North, experimental bands, DIY art, galleries, dance parties, LGBTQ dance parties, bartenders, tiki bars, bar snacks, tiki cocktails, rum, rye, gin, tequila, genever, Luau Restaurant, Jet Pilot, Poipu Beach Boogie Board, Angostura bitters, lime, cinnamon, grapefruit, alernum, absinthe, rye whiskey, whiskey, Saturn, J. "Popo" Galsini, Aloha, Mexico, modern cocktails, classic cocktails, shrimp, chicken, pineapple, mint, tamarind, bitters, passion fruit, lemon, almond, punches, Recommended

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Oct 25, 2013
Recommended Video
Gogi Korean barbecue reignites the fire

Live-charcoal tabletop grilling returns to West Ridge.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Review, suburbs, West Ridge, Korean barbecue, Korean restaurants, Gogi, gogigui, Kang Nam, Solga, Hai Woon Dae, Tozi, BellyQ, meat, Stella Cho, Pete Cho, Yeowoosai, live-coal barbecue, beef, pork, marinades, steak, veal, pa muchim, salad, perilla leaves, ssamjang, samgyeopsal, galbi, dwaeji galbi, ribs, dak galbi, chicken, yukhoe, haemul pajeon, kimchijeon, octopus, kimchi, dolsot bibimbap, rice, soups, gyeran jjim, gochujang, beer, Hitachino, makgeolli, Slow City, Recommended, Video

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Oct 4, 2013
Recommended Video
Tanta: Peruvian time is nigh

Star chef Gastón Acurio introduces Peru to River North.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Tanta, Peruvian restaurants, Peruvian cuisine, Gastón Acurio, pan-Peruvian cuisine, Laurent Tourondel, restauranteurs, fusion cuisine, River North, ceviches, cebiches, street food, skewers, pollo a la brasa, chicken, meat, Nikkei cuisine, potatoes, causitas, aji amarillo, chile paste, seafood, anticuchos, octopus, sweet potatoes, sauces, olives, huacatay, beef heart, beef, chimichurri, corn, squid, shrimp, rocoto pepper, peppers, tuna, avocado, tamarind, uni, crab, scallops, oysters, choclo, tiraditos, fish, sashimi, leche de tigre, hangover cures, rice, chaufa aeropuerto, fried rice, pork, omelets, texture, paella, dolsot bibimbap, Chinese cuisine, Japanese cuisine, lomo saltado, onions, tomatoes, paiche, chupe, carapulcra, rotisserie chicken, pisco, cocktails, bars, pisco sours, desserts, quinoa, ice cream, pumpkin, doughnuts, Recommended, Video

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Aug 9, 2013
Lao 18: It ain't Chinatown anymore

Tony Hu's latest might be the best Chinese restaurant in River North, but it's the worst in his empire.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Review, Lao 18, cumin, sole, fish, chili, eggplant, Tony Hu, Chinatown, Lao Shanghai, Lao Hunan, Lao Beijing, Lao You Ju, Lao Sze Chuan, neighborhoods, Chinatown, River North, Chinese cuisine, regional cuisines, regional Chinese cuisines, Chinese restaurants, Hubbard Street, Dmitry Samarov, tripe, chicken feet, salad, Chinese restaurant demographics, beef, lamb, tofu, Tony's Three Chili Chicken, chicken, ma la, sichuan peppercorn, oil, texture, bean curd stew, cold beef and tripe, scallion pancakes, pork belly, pork, plum sauce, noodles, niu rou mian, broth, Peking duck spring rolls, shrimp, cheese, ham, fried rice, service, 4 Rebels Dragonfruit, cocktails, vodka, Sazerac, Japanese whiskey, Hub 51, Rockit

Food & Drink, Key Ingredient Jul 25, 2013
Video
Key Ingredient: Topolobampo's Andres Padilla transforms cock's combs

Fried like chicharrones, the rooster's crowning glory becomes a "really, really cool" plate.
- By Julia Thiel
- Tags: Key Ingredient, Topolobampo, cock's comb, chicharron, texture, roosters, wattles, finanziera, Chris Cosentino, braising, candying, Incanto, Andrew Zimmern, Bizarre Foods, Andres Padilla, Carl Shelton, Greg Gunthorp, Gunthorp Farms, chicken, Mexican food, duck fat, cornstarch, pan frying, deep frying, summer squash, tatume squash, salt brine, squash blossoms, green peanut mole, tomatillos, poblano peppers, peanuts, grilled onions, serrano peppers, cilantro, parsley, chicken skin, chicken stock, offal, Video

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Jul 15, 2013
Endgrain: The good, the bad, and the biscuit

On an uneven menu, there's one thing that really stands out.
- By Sam Worley
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Enoch Simpson, Roscoe Village, Endgrain, Girl & the Goat, Nightwood, biscuits, doughnuts, marble rye, pumpernickel pasta, tomato sauce, artichoke hearts, zucchini, chevre, Thai, nam sod salad, ground pork, kimchi, smoked-fish sandwich, tomato remoulade, gruyere, Parmesan, mushroom and rapini tart, chicken, Sausage gravy, fried chicken, Terragusto, Billy Sunday

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Jul 8, 2013
Stick with tradition at J. Rocco

Pick a meatball, any meatball (but probably not the shrimp kind).
- By Gwynedd Stuart
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Italian restaurants, River North, shrimp, Steve Chiappetti, meat, beef, pork, veal, Chiappetti Lamb & Veal, J. Rocco, chicken, pasta, fusilli, salmon, artichoke, spinach, tomato, modern Italian cuisine, rustic Italian cuisine, lamb, cocktails, small plates, bars, octopus, appetizers, arugula, onions, burrata, bartenders, meatballs, fish, pennette, gluten-free options, focaccia, chart, halibut, sturgeon, J. Rocco Italian Table & Bar

Food & Drink, Restaurant Review Jun 24, 2013
Recommended
The Big Star of chicken shacks

Parson's Chicken & Fish is a summer party at a hipster Harold's—for now.
- By Mike Sula
- Tags: Restaurant Reviews, Parson's Chicken & Fish, hot sauces, fish, chicken, pollock, hush puppies, baccala, funnel cake, clam rolls, shrimp, salad, oysters, cheese toast, octopus, bars, beer, Negroni slushy, michelada, Dip Unit, hip-hop, Harold's Chicken Shack, YouTube, fried chicken, upscale fried chicken, Big Jones, Honey Butter Fried Chicken, Logan Square, Longman & Eagle, Big Star, cocktails, patios, whiskey, Ping-Pong, Recommended

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