Once infamous for its excesses, the influential restaurant from mercurial chef Michael Carlson has transformed into a fertile proving ground for Chicago’s next generation of young culinary talent. Now that it’s all grown up, has Schwa lost its edge?
A chef whose mesmerizing creativity is deserving of fame? A drug addict in recovery who rightly eschews sobriety? A twentysomething memoirist whose brief history is worth your time? Or is he none of those things?
Underground chef Iliana Regan, who's been at the helm of precious few kitchens besides the one in her Andersonville apartment, is going legit with her ambitious "new gatherer" restaurant. The concept could be her greatest asset and greatest challenge.